5/12/2024 Porto Touristico di Roma, Italy
Up early to finish packing and get Bill and Owen to the taxi
stand. We departed about 0845 and Owen and Bill were off in their Taxi by 0900.
It was another calm day, no wind, no swell, lots of sail boats and fishing
boats playing on a Sunday. The sun was shining and we were busy on the boat as
we motored NW back to Port Ercole. Suzette did some cleaning and I worked
mostly on my last sunshade side curtain. Bill had me motivated to do some other
improvements to the boat, little things to make it safer and easier to operate,
I will spare you the details.
We arrived at the anchorage at 1700 as other boats were
leaving. We dropped the hook in 4m over sand and the anchor easily set. This is
a beautiful spot, castle on the hill, long beach, a couple beach clubs and lots
of sunbathers. It was Sunday and Suzette had made the pizza dough on the way
up.
We did the pizza on the grill as it was getting warm and we
did not want to heat the cabin. We were alone in the anchorage as the sun set
and all the boats and people left. It was a very quiet night.
5/13/2024 Poggio Pertuso Anchorage,
Italy
It was a bit overcast in the morning, but slowly cleared as
the morning progressed. Calm and quiet in the anchorage we busied ourselves
with cleaning and getting the boat back to two-person mode. I finished my side
curtain and a few other chores. It was Monday so not much activity on the beach
or in the water.
We watched anxiously for an email telling us the generator
was ready, but no email. We took the dinghy into town and found a great
chandlery. We bought new dock lines and a hand full of hardware that had found
its way on to my list while Bill was on board and making lots of great
suggestions for improvements.
Back on board we fired off an email to Boma and settled in
for a Prosecco sundowner. Dinner was mac and cheese; Italian pasta, 3 cheeses
and sun dried tomatoes. It has begun, the challenge of eating all the food on
the boat before we leave.
5/14/2024 Poggio Pertuso Anchorage, Italy
A very calm night and sunny calm morning. We headed to the
fuel dock to top up, but they were having issues and said “wait 1 hour”. We
reanchored and waited, the fuel was inexpensive, 1.80 euros/ltr, so it was
worth it to wait. When we saw the boat that was in the fuel dock leave, we knew
it was our turn. Suzette did a masterful job of landing the boat at the fuel
dock. We took on 270 ltrs and we were on our way. In spite of a breeze pushing
us onto the dock Suzette made our departure look easy.
We motored around the peninsula that is the Commune of Argentario
and returned to a berth in Porto Santos Stefano. If it sounds familiar it is,
we left our generator here nearly a month and a half ago. We settled the boat
and rode our bikes to Boma. Our mechanic was there and explained that the part
they were waiting for was a fan blade assembly. The original was cracked in the
process of removal, but he only noticed the damage when he went to reinstall
it. He was confident that the part would arrive today and the generator would
be reassembled and tested in the morning. They would come to the boat and let
us know when they would be ready to reinstall. The wind was predicted to be
gusting to 20 tomorrow starting at 1100. We urged them to try and be ready
prior to that. Satisfied and optimistic, we were on our way.
We made a quick stop at the Supermercato and the Fruteria
for a few critical items. After dropping off our groceries we put the bikes
away and walked to the chandlery to get a fresh bottle of Butane. Back on the
boat we spent the rest of the day cleaning and doing some small chores. Dinner
was a salad, fresh bread and cheese. Games for the night and fingers crossed
for a generator in the morning.
5/15/2024 Porto Santos Stefano, Italy
The morning was calm as we waited for Boma to give us the
thumbs up. They arrived about 1100 and said they were ready. We motored over to
the raggedy fishing dock and tied up tight in spite of the building breeze.
They wasted no time dropping the generator in and securing it. By 1130 we were
heading back to our berth. With the wind on our stern, we quickly tied up and
settled the boat. The mechanics were off to lunch, so we did the same.
The mechanics were back at 1300 and surprisingly quickly had the generator ready to run. We tested it with all 3 air conditioning units running and it seemed to work fine. They cleaned up and went on their way. I buttoned up the sound proof enclosure for the generator and re Poggio Pertuso Anchorage, Italy returned the lines, spare anchor and spare bumpers to their storage space now that we no longer needed the side access to the generator. Woohoo!
While they worked on the generator, I cleaned up the forward
anchor locker and relocated the rode and chain for the stern anchor to the
stern lazarette to lighten the bow. Suzette was busy cleaning the cockpit
cushions; the white cushions are beautiful, but maybe not the best choice for
keeping clean. They do seem to clean up well, time will tell. A good day’s work
and the boat is ready to head south in the morning. We traveled about 200 miles
in the wrong direction to get the generator, ugh.
To the showers and a celebratory cocktail. We decided to go
out for dinner and Suzette found a great seafood restaurant Lo Sfizio. We put
on our going to dinner clothes and enjoyed a stroll along the waterfront. We
stopped at a shop that we had been in before, lots of colorful scarves, bags
and blouses in matching fabrics. Suzette had wanted to buy a scarf here last
time we visited, but did not succeed. This time she was successful, a colorful
summer scarf for the collection.
We found our restaurant on the high road above the promenade
and we could see Raffaellesco in her Berth. The view was beautiful and the
temperature just right. Our waiter was very attentive and full of suggestions,
but a little disappointed when we did not follow all of his guidance. Dinner was excellent; brochette with eggplant and zucchini, seafood over gnocchi,
pasta carbonara with a medley of seafood and a couple carafes of the house red
wine. Crème Brulé and mascarpone with lady finger cookies for desert.
Another quiet night in the marina and ready for an early start south in the morning.
5/16/2024 Porto Santos Stefano, Italy
Up early under cloudy skies, calm wind and calm seas. We
were away by O700 and heading southeast, destination to be determined. The wind
remained light on our nose with a bit of a swell, also on our nose. We made our
coffee while underway wanting to get further south before the predicted winds
got too strong. As it turns out the wind never really materialized and the
swell was minimal.
We were going stop back in Porto Touristico di Roma, but
decided to push harder and go back to Anzio where there was a reasonably
protected anchorage. Suzette fired up the generator and washed two loads of
clothes! With clothes hanging all over the cabin we proceeded to motor south
east.
We reached the anchorage just before sunset, 90 miles for
the day. We anchored in 4m of water in mud and sand with good holding on the
first set. We had already eaten left overs for dinner while on the way. We
settled in for some weather and trip planning before going to bed. It was a
little rolling, but not nearly as bad as we have seen in the past.
5/17/2024 Anzio Anchorage, Italy
Up early and off the hook by 0545 as the sun was rising, but
not yet over the mountain. There was a pretty good swell coming from a little
north of west that was pushing us along. The current was also in our favor and
no wind. It was planned to be a 90 mile day to Capri and our progress was
looking good. This was the last calm day before a few days of high winds.
The generator went on about 1030 as the swell was settling
and from behind. A couple more loads of laundry in an effort to get ahead of
the dirty clothes and linens. We passed between Isola di Procida and the
mainland and entered the Golfe of Napoli around 1600. Capri was in sight, but
the wind and sea were not favorable for the intended anchorage. We selected a
new anchorage on the south side of the Amalfi Peninsula. We passed between
Capri and the Mainland at about 1830 and turned east.
The first anchorage was full of mooring balls and a Marinaros in a rib who came out to sell us a mooring for 50 euros. We told him we wanted to anchor and he pointed out to sea. We moved on to anchorage number two and found the same. We headed east toward Positano and a Zone C area (they designate the marine reserves as Zone A, B and C. C is least restrictive and anchoring is permitted) that was behind a small island. We made our way in much to my trepidation, but we anchored about 200 m off a tiny beach in about 9m of water. The sun was behind the peninsula now and we did have some gentle swell rolling into the anchorage. We rung our hands over it for a bit and decided to stay. We were surrounded by soring cliffs, very grand and awe inspiring. Time for cocktails and dinner after 2 long days.
We were now back to where we started when we discovered that we would have to backtrack 200 miles to retrieve our generator. 400 miles later we are back where we started and ready to head further south tomorrow.
8/18/24 Positano Anchorage, Italy
Up at down and underway by 0600. The night was quiet and the
roll was tolerable. Suzette is much braver than I when it comes to anchorage
selection. The day was hazy, but calm wind and sea. Suzette fired up the
generator for more laundry, it is a small washing machine. The wind quickly
built to 16, as predicted, and created a bit of chop, but it dissipated almost
as quickly. Wind and sea went quiet as we passed through the Golfo di Salerno.
Positano
Along the way we received confirmation from Marina Camarota
for a berth for the night. 3 days at sea and we were ready for some terra firma,
not to mention fuel and some groceries, the TP is running low as well!
The wind picked up a little bit as we were approaching the
harbor. We were warned that the entrance was shallow, but without guidance we
stayed in the middle. Wrong answer as we gently ran aground, my depth sounder
is very accurate as proven today. We back off and radioed the marina for
guidance…”stay 30’ of off the right side. That worked and the water got deeper
as we came into the harbor. There was a free dock at this harbor, but, as
typical with these, it was a bit rough and high. We made our way through the
harbor and found the fuel dock. This was even tighter than the Power Boats
Italia fuel dock where we last fueled. The light breeze was favorable and once
in position the breeze gently pushed us to the dock. Between motoring and
generator running we managed to burn 302 liters of fuel. Having filled the tanks,
we crabbed off of the dock and the Marinaros waived us into the berth. Another
very tight spot, but with favorable breeze we settled in easily.
We settled the boat quickly, electing not to plug into their
power or water. This makes for a quick getaway in the morning. We changed and
got ready to leave the boat for a walk and a Gelato. Just as our feet hit the
dock it started to rain, so we waited. We watched as another sailboat come in
and also run aground, twice! You would think the harbor could drop a red ball
in the entrance and at least suggest that you go to the right. The new arrival
did a masterful job backing down the nonexistent fairway and into a berth. They
were French flagged.
The rain let up and we did get our gelato, I always get
lemon, my favorite here in Italy. We stopped at the marina office to pay for
our berth and made it to the boat as more rain came. Another break in the rain
had us heading to the castle on the hill. It looked ancient, but inside it looks
like someone had tried to build out rooms in the last 100 years or so. It was
abandoned and in need of a lot of TLC. It was originally built in the 12th
century, a definite fixer upper.
Next, we wondered through the quaint little town and found a grocery store for a couple critical items, Tonic and Toilet Paper. On the way back we passed a church and heard the congregation singing inside. A quick peak revealed a beautiful sanctuary inside of an austere byzantine building. We made it back to the boat in time to beat the rain.
It was breakfast for dinner tonight. A round of Pinocle and
ready for bed and a good night’s sleep.
5/19/2024 Marina Camerota, Italy
Up at 0500 and out at 0530 for the 82 mile run south east,
just shy of the Messina Strait and Sicily. Calm, but very hazy so I turned on
the radar. As the sun came up the visibility improved, but remained at about 5
miles. The wind stayed calm behind us and it was a glassy flat sea as we
motored making 8 knots SOG. We had a dolphin sighting, but no boats and no
land. There was a boat on AIS that was running closer to shore, but seemed to
be heading to the same destination as we were. At about noon the sea went from
flat to a 3’ swell in moments. There was no change in the wind, just a swell on
our nose. This lasted an hour or so and then it was gone.
The wind was picking up so we unfurled the main and jib and enjoyed the quiet of sailing as we kept busy trimming sails in wind that was not holding steady in direction or speed. The wind built to 18 so we reefed the sails and enjoyed a fairly consistent ride. The wind built even higher and moved to our nose, we furled the sails and motored for the last hour and a half into the harbor. As we were approaching the land it seemed that the wind was accelerating off the mountain tops, we saw 37 knots on the wind meter! I find it hard to believe, but that is what it read. Fortunately, it died down to 15 as we entered the harbor. Another shallow entry with a sand bar across the approach, only dangerous in a NE wind and big seas. We navigated in successfully and called the marina.
They responded immediately and directed us in. The breeze
was still up at about 15, but favorable as we were directed in to a corner spot
next to a Lagoon 55 Catamaran. We no sooner tied up and another boat pulled
next to us. It turned out to be the boat I was tracking on AIS all day. Once
they were settled, we chatted for a bit. They were cruising and had a new born
baby. This was their first long day, 82 miles, with the baby and the baby did
well. They are headed through the strait to Malta and on to Barcelona for the
cup races in September. Paqual and Carroll from Switzerland, I am sure we will
talk some more.
The boat was in desperate need of cleaning; 4 long days of
salt spray and 2 rains full of Saharan red dust. We tag teamed the cleaning
effort and made short work of it. To the showers, cocktails and dinner. We were
down for the count by 2100 and enjoyed a blissful night of sleep.
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