March 23, 2025 – Bar Marina, Montenegro

An overcast rainy day with plenty of time for writing and reading. I always have maintenance items and things to check just to break up the day. I have been concerned about the health of my batteries. I checked the battery chargers, two for the house batteries, and discovered that the factory installed charger was set to lead acid not AGM. I have AGM which like a lower voltage and higher amperage. I switched the charger to the proper setting and will now monitor the batteries more closely. I spent a great deal of time just researching to learn more about the batteries and how to maintain and test them with the equipment that I have on the boat.

The rain let up after lunch giving us the opportunity to go exploring Bar. The promenade along the shore is a paved path lined with palms and olive trees. The city appears to have been prosperous as they had invested a lot of money in the promenade, sidewalks and parks. Today it appears that they are having a difficult time affording the maintenance.


On the shore with a beautiful view of the Adriatic is King Nicola’s Palace, a beautiful building that is being carefully restored to its 19th century glory. The grounds will need some work, but you can see that it was once a beautiful estate. Next door is a grand hotel with indoor and outdoor swimming pools at the water’s edge. Heading inland we passed a sports park with clay tennis courts and soccer fields, but no one is playing on this damp day. It is Sunday however, that means lots of locals out strolling as a family, it is a heartwarming sight.



This guy reminded me of Don Quixote

From our boat in the Marina, we could see several gleaming gold domed roofs in the distance. Now we see that they are the Temple of St Jovan Vladimir, and Orthodox Church. The grounds were purchased and consecrated in the 60’s to celebrate 1000 years of Jovan Vladimir, but it took nearly 50 years to raise money and get past the bureaucracy of Montenegro in order to build the church. It stands out against the skyline with its white walls, gleaming gold roof and sea blue adornments. Inside is an amazing display of frescos and painted walls telling its story as painted by many painters. Every inch of the interior is part of an endless painting, stories, portraits and bible verses. Visually this is a very moving interior that sours to the heavens with its tall walls and huge domes.

Temple of St Joven Vladimir







We returned to the boat where Suzette made an incredible Butternut Squash soup, perfect for this cool and rainy day. Butternut squash is very popular here in Montenegro, and one of my favorites. My Mom made her pumpkin pie from Butternut Squash, a dear memory, but I guess that would make it Butternut Squash pie…not much of a ring to that name.

In the middle of the night the wind picked up and the dock lines were making an awful croaking sound.  It must have been fairly warm as I was out adjusting lines in my underwear and a tee shirt. I had made the spring lines too short and left no length for stretching. Retying the lines longer quieted the croak and let me go back to sleep.

March 24, 2025 – Bar Marina, Montenegro

Another overcast and rainy day made for a productive day below. I spent more time researching AGM batteries and battery charging, switching on the Refresh Mode on the battery charger and now satisfied with my system. The next project was to finish the water maker repair and test it, no leaks and no squeaks! Next, I downloaded an update for the Fusion Sound system, but I am not sure that I really changed anything. It is amazing how quickly a rainy day can go by. A much quieter night as the weather settled.

March 25, 2025 – Bar Marina, Montenegro

Overcast but dry I could see all the red dust that had settled on the boat from the rain. It seems that the Sahara would run out of sand with all the dust being carried across the Mediterranean throughout history. Being side tied I could inspect the hull and saw that it was streaked with black. With a reprieve in the weather, I broke out the soap and scrub brush and washed the entire boat. Suzette cleaned down below.

With the boat ship shape we checked the weather comparing Windfinder with Windy in an effort to decide when to depart. It was a choice between tomorrow, less wind and swell, but more rain or Thursday, less rain and wind, but larger swells. The Admiral said Wednesday, tomorrow, is the day. This set in motion a series of activities in order to be prepared to Leave Montenegro and enter Albania. But first a shower and a respite at the Boulangerie Parisienne for coffee and pastry.

On the way we stopped at the marina office to settle our bill and confirm that the tourist tax would be addressed by the marina. We received a confused look and they indicated that they did not handle the tourist tax, unlike the Lazure Marina. She explained that there had been a change of government, and she was not sure what the requirements were. Sounds like the United States! She directed us to the Tourist Office in town to inquire about the tourist tax. As luck would have it the Tourist office is right next store to the Parisienne, we inquired, and we were told that we needed to “register” within 24 hours of arriving in Bar if we were staying more than 24 hrs. There is that word again, “register”, last time I heard that word was just before the Marine Police wrote me a ticket in Croatia! We would need to return with our papers. Coffee first!

We retrieved our papers and presented them to the Tourist Tax lady. She suggested that we arrived yesterday and asked when we would be leaving. I chose not to correct her assumption and told her we would be leaving tomorrow. She filled out a form, gave me a copy and thanked me for registering. I asked her if we owed her any money and she said no, as husband and wife on the boat we did not have to pay anything. We went on our way happy to have our receipt and recognizing that it was in fact a registration not a tax, I guess.

Next stop was the Harbor Master one door down. He was very helpful, stamped our papers and gave us copies to give to the border police and customs on our way out. It turns out he had been a ship’s captain on the east coast of the US. He ran a ship from Boston to Corpus Christi.

Since we were leaving in the morning, we decided to make a couple of stops for some sundries. First stop was the bakery for a loaf of fresh bread, .70 euros. Next was a hardware store where I was looking for some kind of outdoor thermometer but found instead the heavy duty black zip ties that I was out of, these are so indispensable. We passed a Vilo Hypermart, a huge grocery store and decided to stop there on our way back to the boat.  Next stop, Okav, similar to a Lowes, but with more housewares. They had an outdoor thermometer in the shape of a fish and in Raffaellesco blue!

The hypermart was fantastic, they had the brands we were accustomed to but could not find in the small grocery stores; Hendricks Gin, Lavasa Coffee and Loreal Purple Shampoo (the secret for keeping our gray locks silver not yellow). Of course, there were a few other food items to fill the pantry as we did not count on any decent stores in Albania over the next few days.

The growth on the bottom of this boat looks like a Dr Sus Tree

Raffaellesco in Bar

Remains of an ancient church

It rained hard all night; my only thought was that it would get it out of its system for tomorrow’s voyage.

March 26, 2025 – Bar Marina, Montenegro

Up at 0500 to prepare the boat for departure. We were underway by 0630 and headed to the customs dock in the inner harbor. It was overcast with a little drizzle and light wind. The dock at customs was a concrete quay with enough room between the big black tires for bumpers that we could easily side tie. I took our book of documents to the border police and then to customs with no problems we were checked out of Montenegro heading to Durres, Albania 55 miles south.

Leaving Bar

A ray of sunshine!


The rain was off and on all day, but we were dry and warm in our foul weather gear. The wind was on our nose and built to 15 before clocking to the east and dyeing down to 5 knots. The swell was running about 3’ from the south with a comfortably long period making for a gentle ride.

We crossed the Albanian border at 1120 just as another sailboat was crossing in the opposite direction. They hailed us on the VHF and we enjoyed a brief exchange, where you been, where you going, any tips, fair winds, out. As we approach Durres the swell built to 4’-6’ from the SW for a rolling arrival in Durres. The long approach to the harbor is well marked and had the seas following us. On either side of the approach were rock out crops, shoals and shallows…follow the markers. We radioed the marina, but we received no response. This usually means they do not speak your language but there is usually someone on the dock to waive you in and there was. We side-tied on a pier that had long since shed its outer layer of cement exposing its rebar to rust and contort as the ships came and went. The pier was lined with old tires, none the same size but frequently spaced. We managed to get our bumpers between the tires and the boat to avoid skid marks as several hands helped us tie up. There was a woman on the dock who spoke English well and directed us to bring our papers to the office so she could check us in to Albania.

The pier is a bit rough


The check-in was painless and quick. I finished organizing the boat on the dock while Suzette prepared dinner. We were exhausted from a long day of wind, waves and rain, none were severe, but taxing all the same. Fortunately, it was not to cold outside, but we were happy to go below and enjoy our warm dry cabin.

As the tide was coming in it occurred to me that my bumpers could get caught inside of a tire, so I rearranged them. The wind was holding us off the pier, but better safe than sorry.

March 27, 2025 – Durres, Albania

The wind and sea were boisterous in the early morning precipitating a groggy check on our position with the dock. We were being blown away from the dock, which was a good thing, but the lines were growling in 25 knots of wind and rain. So now I am up, guess I will write. A cup of espresso to further kick start the day. The wind and wavelets settled by 0700 as predicted, but it rained into the afternoon.

After the rain cleared, the sun showed itself. We walked into town to see what it was like and to see if we could buy butane. I am not sure which is more depressing in a place like this, the appearance of a poor country without much going on in terms of trade and the economy or the realization that we do not realize how good we have it in the USA. We have so much freedom and opportunity, not to mention a high standard of living. Though I sense that we may need to get accustomed to a lower standard of living in the near future.

Needs some work

Quite a collection

We stopped at a marine store, no butane. We stopped at a grocery store where the meet and cheese case reminded me of the anemic presentations in Russia.  The hardware store had no Butane, but he did direct us to a department store that had everything…except butane. They did expect to get some in a week from now, must be seasonal. Suzette wanted a jigsaw puzzle, so we bought a 1000-piece puzzle of Van Gogh’s Starry Night, it looks like a challenge to me. The sky was darkening, and raindrops were starting to fall, back to the boat.

Cocktails and a puzzle as the sun reappeared in earnest and set beyond the ferries in the harbor. We did some weather planning and decided that the weather window looked good for a Saturday departure. This would work well for checking out of Albania and into Greece on Monday. We puzzled into the night, and it was a quiet night.

March 28, 2025 – Durres, Albania

Up with the sun, and partly cloudy skies. I did some shimming and adjusted the engine room door, checking that off my list. I added cleaning up one of the engine mounts to my list but took care of it and checked it off. The day started very nicely, and we hoped we did not make a mistake in not moving on in our travels, we would explore old Durres instead.

Like Montenegro there must have been times of prosperity where the Albanians built beautiful building, waterfront resorts and inviting parks. Now they are in desperate need of significant maintenance. There are more half built buildings here than anywhere else we have been. One in particular looked like they built and occupied the first third of the high rise 30 years ago, the second third appears to be occupied for maybe 10 years and the top third is still under construction. That might be generous, it appears that construction has stopped and there is, what I call, a see through building.

Looks like 3 architects were involved at different times

We checked out the Venetian tower and old city walls, left over from a time when Venice ruled the Mediterranean and required walled cities to protect the people. From here it was a short walk to the beach and the promenade lined with palm trees, play areas and restaurants. With the emerald green water of the Adriatic as a back drop it looked very inviting. Back into the city there is a huge 20,000 seat Amphitheatre that dates back to 200 CE. All things considered, it is well preserved and looked beautiful with a green grass field and the sea in the background. This was the extent of the ancient Roman world left here in Durres.

Interesting bank building

Grand entry to the city

The Venetian Tower

Sea front Promenade

New apartments overlooking the sea

Ominous sky, but great art

Amphitheatre


Durres Town Square


The sun remained bright, and we enjoyed lunch in the cockpit soaking up rays. I could finally check my solar output, all is good. A couple other little maintenance chores while Suzette noodled over her puzzle. A little preparation for the next day’s departure rounded out the afternoon.  Suzette had homemade broth for soup simmering all day, the cabin smelled delicious.

After the sun had set, we watched a lightning show off in the distance, happy it was out at sea and not here in the harbor. It was a very calm and quiet night.




Comments

Popular posts from this blog