9/23/23 Port St Louis, France
Our protected marina turned out to be a good call as the
gale raged in the Gulf, we were quite comfy in the marina. With winds still
high we were in no hurry to leave. We checked in at the office and they were
happy to have us stay another night. We decided to hang out in their little club
room and take advantage of their WIFI. It was my opportunity to get caught up
on line.
With wind blowing all day we remained safely pinned to the quay.
Suzette worked hard to finish her cleaning and polishing as she prepared for
guests to arrive the next day. I tore into my electrical project;
fundamentally I was adding the ability to use the 110v water heater when
plugged into the 230v dock power. We made a grocery run with the wagon in tow
for a break from chores. We were both so immersed in our tasks that we were
surprised when the sun started to set. Time for a shower and something to eat.
We teased about going out on the town as it was on this day 30 years ago that Suzette and I first met. And then Suzette reminded me that I was going to make a Patato
Frittata for tomorrows tapas dinner. The frittata is always better the next
day, so I prepared the Frittata.
The wind blew all night, but we were beat and slept well.
9/24/23 Port St Louis, France
We almost never set an alarm, but we did this morning. We
wanted an early start to get to Marseille before our friends arrived. We were
underway by 730. The wind was strong, but shifted to the NW, so it pushed us
off the quay for our departure. With the wind at nearly 20 we motored out and
along the shore with no swell and a favorable current. It was only 26 miles to
Marseille and the wind and current were pushing us east very quickly.
The bay was filled with sailboats; racing and pleasure boats. As predicted the wind dropped to nearly nothing as we made our way into the old port. We radioed the marina, but received no answer so we resorted to a phone call. We were directed to a great mooring on the end of the pannes and settled in. With the boat settled we set off to pick up a baguette and meet Jon and Liz on the quay. John is a longtime friend from back in my McDonald Douglas days, we shared a house with one other friend. It was great to see them here in France. They were at the end of a couple weeks of champagne and wine tasting as well as a visit to Paris.
We welcomed them aboard enjoying a bottle of wine in the cockpit as we caught up on recent travel adventures. Some fruits, nuts and cheese for sustenance and we were off to explore the city. We walked the waterfront of the old port and then headed east up La Canebiere, Marseilles version of the Champs Elysees, to a beautiful cathedral (I never did figure out the name). It turned out to be a perfect warm sunny day with a lite breeze, perfect for strolling in the city. On the return we scoped out the restaurants by the port looking for a good place to have the quintessential Marseilles Bouillabaisse, but for tonight it is tapas for dinner on the boat. For us it was a late night as we talked until after 2300.
9/25/23 Marseille, France
A lazy morning as we milled about the boat, it always seems that the more people there are the longer it takes to get ready. We headed out about noon with a plan to visit La Citadelle de Marseille and on to Chez Fonfon for a Lunch of Bouillabaisse in a small cove on the west shore. The Citadelle was closed for renovation so we moved on further up the hill to Abbaye Saint Victor. This turned out to be a great site, the crypt of St Cassian dated back to the 5th century. The fortified abbey was built on top of the crypt. Austere, but beautiful inside. Heading for Chez Fonfon we discovered that it was closed until 1900 and that there were no reservations to be had for a couple days. Guess I picked a great spot…
Not wanting to deter my comrades I quietly had us heading further uphill toward the Basilica of Notre-Dame of la Garde. The Basilica sits on the highest point in the city. Fortunately, about the time my comrades asked how high we were climbing the beautiful basilica came into view and they were enticed to complete the climb. The view alone was worth it, 360 degree view of Marseille, and the Basilica was beautiful. It seemed to be a monument to the seafarers who had passed. Ships hung from the ceiling like mobiles. Lots of great pictures to be had.
Heading down the north slope to ascend was much easier. It was decided that a little food and a siesta was in order so we found our way back to the boat, nearly 10,000 steps, but who’s counting. An afternoon tot and a power nap had us ready to find our Bouillabaisse. Our sundowner was a beautiful bottle of Champagne that John and Liz brought, Lamaire 2009. Perhaps the first time we have had champagne for sundowners, very special. We walked to L’hippocampus (The Seahorse) on the quay in the port. The Bouillabaisse was good as we all partook in the tradition, a bottle of wine, a Bandol 2020. We closed the place down as we were nearly the last to leave at 2300.
Basilica at sunset
Classic Sailboats lined up at the quay
An after dinner port on the boat, a single vintage 2007 from
Churchills, I had been holding it since our stop in Porto. Sleep came easy as
the night was cool and quiet.
9/26/23 Marseille, France
9/27/23 Marseille, France
Lots of organizing for departures in the morning. John and
Liz were catching a flight in Marseille heading to London where they were
meeting friends. We were sailing out heading east to a yet to be determined
anchorage. We were sad to see our guests leave so soon, but we had a great time
with them in Marseille.
We departed the dock about 1200 and stopped at the fuel dock
on the way out, my least favorite thing to do, but we needed fuel. I had hoped
to sail after onboarding all that fuel, but light wind on our stern had us
motoring east. We found a protected anchorage around 1400, off Plage du
Jonguest and settled in with a few other boats. The day was hot and sunny so a
swim felt good in the 22 C water. We anchored in 6m on sand and you could see
the anchor and entire length of chain. The beach was populated, but as the land
cast shade to the beach they dispersed fairly quickly. The night was quiet with
virtually no wind and only an occasional swell from a passing boat.
9/28/23 Plage du Jonquest. France
The sunrise was spectacular, orange and blue with a stream
of ruffled high clouds. A lazy morning waiting for the wind to come up gave us
the opportunity to do a little post guest clean up. It is a big boat, but when
we have guests there is a little bit of rearranging to comfortably accommodate
everyone, like I get to move back into my bathroom, etc. Don’t get me wrong, we
love having guests, so you should plan a visit.
I was again determined to sail so we unfurled the code zero for a broad reach across the Golf du Gienes with Toulon harbor in the distance behind us. As we approached the islands, we rounded Ilse du Grand Ribaud gybing the main from dead downwind to a broad reach to make our way between the islands and the mainland. I hoped the breeze would freshen when we passed the last island, Pointe de la Rovere, but the wind continued to die so on with the motor to get in before sunset. Rounding Pont Taillat we settled into the anchorage with about 15 other boats, but plenty of room. Anchor down in 5m on sand and we were settled in for the night.
While underway Suzette managed two loads of laundry and a pot of homemade soup for dinner. We were down to half of a day-old baguette, but it was delicious in the soup. The anchorage was very quiet as there is no town nearby. More boats quietly arrived overnight under a full harvest moon.
9/29/23 Taillat Anchorage, France
Another sunny warm day and a morning working on deck and
hull cleaning had us enticed into a snorkel around the rock reef that lay about
300 yards off our starboard. Lots of boat activity as a group of small sailing
skiffs left the beach, looked like they had been camping on the beach. There
were lots of make shift sunshades fabricated from drift wood that littered the
beach. Underwater there were not a lot of fish, but I am reminded, once again,
that I need to find a fish ID book!
We got underway and motored in a light breeze up to Ilse La Croisette and rounded into the waters off St Tropez. It was the start of the Voile de St Tropez, a two week sailing extravaganza, maxis, production boats, custom boats and classics. We unfurled the main and jib for a slow sail that provided lots of opportunity to see the boats practicing, lots of maxis with their black hulls, black rigs and black sails; lots of carbon fiber. There were classic sloops and schooners just cruising along for show. It was a who’s who of sailboats. We were greeted by a pair of friendly dolphins as we rounded Pointe de la Ribiou and into Baie Des Canebiers to anchor with all the beautiful yachts on hand for the event.
We saw an American flag on a classic ketch so we motored over in the dinghy to say hello. The captain and mate were on board settling in for a sundowner and very graciously invited us on board for a drink and a tour. The boat was built here in France in 1920. The current owner found it some 30 years ago in very poor shape in a yard near St Tropez. He has pain stakingly restored the boat for racing and cruising. Last year, in the high winds, they were the only classic yacht to finish this race. The owner will arrive in a couple days and they will sail with a crew of 12.
So rare to see a US flag
We motored the dinghy into the St Tropez Harbor too scope it
out for a place to park the dinghy and shop. We flagged a Capitainerie and he
said he could find us a birth, but it sounded like there might be a fee. We
flagged another dinghy down and Suzette asked in French about a parking spot
and he took us to a place way back in the marina, perfect. The harbor was
filled with phenomenal sail boats of every description. On the way back to Raffaellesco
we saw a 5 masted square rigged clipper ship, later in the evening every spar
and the for and back stays were illuminated making it look like some wild
roller coaster in the distance. The anchorage was filling with more boats as
the harvest moon rose and the sunset on all the beautiful boats.
9/30/23 Baie des Canebiers, France
Overlooking this bay are beautiful homes of the rich and famous including Bridgette Bardot, who made St Tropez famous. Having found the bay, on the other side of the harbor, with room for Raffaellesco we decided to relocate. Up anchor at about 900 we motored slowly over to St Tropez and dropped anchor in 6 m on grass next to a gorgeous Italian boat that we saw anchored back at Taillat. All wood, clean decks and a low coach roof. It had a modern rig painted in a gold color. I could see that this anchorage had way more small boat activity so we would be rocking all day from their wake, but we planned to go ashore.
With the boat barely squared away we loaded the wagon, trash, recycle bag and shopping bags into the dinghy to head into town. Suzette could not wait to see what treasures and fashion awaited her in St Tropez. We found our dinghy parking spot available and tied up. This was a great spot as the trash and recycle cans were handy and the Village was steps away. We walked the shopping district, what am I saying, St Tropez is one big shopping district. Suzette was in her glory. We passed through a square full of commemorative photos of the stars who had graced these streets. As always, Suzette set the bar high for fashion as she shopped and found several new things to add to her ever growing wardrobe on the boat.
With all the racers and sailors in town bringing down the
level of fashion and wealth we were probably getting a less than normal
perspective of the town. What would the day be without a stop at the chandlery?
We have been looking for a particular brand of SS polish that is made in France
and they happen to have it so we bought one for Raffaellesco and one for
Rascal.
North Sails had a store on the quay and seemed to be the
authorized dealer for everything Voile de St Tropez, so I picked up a polar
shirt to commemorate the event. Now that I think about it I should have bought
a Tee Shirt for Bob. We walked the quay where all the big maxis were birthed
and marveled at the size and sleek lines of these boats. The quay is lined with
restaurants out to the mole where the event tents were set up for sponsors and
spectators.
Shopped out we headed back to the boat in time for sundowners and dinner. Another beautiful day, sunny, clear, 80 with a light breeze. It was fun relaxing in the cockpit as the sunset and the lights came on all of the boats, the tall rigs of the maxis had lights shining up the masts at each of their 5 or 6 spreaders, the power boats lit up the water with their colorful underwater lights. Hard to fathom the amount of money floating here on the water.
10/1/23 St Tropez, France
Another beautiful morning, but much cooler as we usher in
fall. We had been running low 70s in the morning in the cabin, this morning was
66! It warmed up quickly as we spent the morning on chores. Suzette cleaned and
polished inside and out. I finished wiring my 230v systems, all that remains is
to test it when we are in a marina. The bay was alive with activity, huge
tenders flying back and forth and helicopters landing on the decks of the mega
yachts as the owners must be starting to arrive for the first races today.
About noon we headed out in the dinghy and watched the
starts for the various classes of Maxis, very imposing with their huge taunt
black sails. We went on into shore to grocery shop, but first things first. Suzette
wanted to exchange a dress she bought yesterday for a smaller size, check.
Next, glaces for lunch, we both had citron in a waffle cone, perhaps the best I
have ever had. We walked the quay as they welcomed in the classic boats and had
them line up on the quay for viewing. Next stop, the grocery store. We have not
been to a grocer since we left Port St Louis. This morning we used the last of
the coffee so a shopping trip was critical! The market by the Marina had a fair
selection so we were able to provision fairly well.
By the time we returned to the boat the last of the racers were coming in and the anchorage was filling with new neighbors. A swim was refreshing, but don’t stray too far from the boat, you might get run over. Even though it was Sunday we decided to have a big salad, baguette and cheese as the baguette was fresh. The sun set over the hill and the water activity calmed as the shrinking moon rose over our sailing community.
10/2/23 St Tropez, France
Up early after a great night sleep in the cool air. After so
many days at anchor my solar panels were losing ground on keeping the batteries
charged. Reluctantly I turned on the generator which precipitated doing a load
of laundry, running the water maker, charging the electric outboard, heating water
and, last but not least, charging the batteries. There are always little
projects to do so I worked on finishing the next side panel for the cockpit, a
70% shade cloth. I made the panel at home, but I needed to install the
fasteners and do a bit of tailoring here on the boat for a good fit.
The races started around noon. We were well positioned at anchor to watch the start and finish sitting on the bow. We lounged on the comfortable cushions and watched the Maxis and the modern sailboats start. The forest of masts at the start line was amazing, hope no fiberglass was harmed. The wind shifted so now the bow was in the sun so it was time to head to the cockpit for shade.
Art Project
As the racers finished the swirl of returning boats turned the anchorage in to a washing machine of waves so doing any fine work was out of the question. It was time for a cocktail and reading as the flurry of activity went on around us. By 1800 the waters began to settle and we put a pizza on the grill. We enjoyed dinner in the cockpit with a nice French wine and a beautiful sunset. It did not take long to cool off enough to drive us down below. Another quiet cool night at anchor.
9/3/23 St Tropez, France
Up early to head to the outdoor market. Every Saturday and
Tuesday they have a sprawling market in the town square, everything food and sundry’s
are available. Of course, there were clothes and Suzette found a cashmere scarf
that she had to have. We stocked up on fresh fruit and some cheese. The cheese
monger had a sausage he called Filet Mignon and it was delicious so we took
some home. I needed a new pair of reading glasses and found a great pair that wrapped
my head with extra long bows. These will not go overboard, not that the last
pair did.
Bronze Statue in the Port
Back on the boat I quickly stowed the dinghy and Suzette
stowed our goods from shopping so we could get underway. The classic yachts
were schedule to have their first start at 1100. We motored out to the course
and found a spot at the leeward end of the starting line to watch the start.
With virtually no wind the race was postponed and we all milled about for the
next hour and 45 mins. It was an excellent opportunity to see the boats up
close as they sailed about the spectator fleet. This race started in 1980 when
two boats, Pride and Ikra raced out to Nioulargo, an underwater bank 5 miles
off Cap St Tropez, and back to St Tropez. We saw the original Ikra, a 12m, in this race.
Finally at 1345 the wind came up and the first race started. Ironically it was a down wind start with wind building from the west. The chutes came out quickly and it was an amazing site to see these grand old girls with all their canvas pressed by the wind. After 4 starts we followed the fleet to the first mark. By the time they were rounding the mark the wind was blowing 25 and it was mayhem. The boats were still tightly packed as they hoisted their jibs and doused their chutes. Sails in the water, boats nearly knocked over and near collisions. Little by little they all got sorted out and headed south on a reach for the next mark. Very exciting, majestic and beautiful.
The Start
We continued west with over 25 knots of wind and a following sea pushing up east toward Cannes. Farewell to St Tropez. With the swell from the south over night we picked an anchorage on the north side of isle Ste-Marguerite, Port de Ste-Marguerite. The pass between the island and pointe de la Croisette was very shallow, at least the wind was down to 20 and we were protected from the swell as we carefully made our way through the pass. Always a bit unnerving and reassuring at the same time when you can see the bottom of the sea you are sailing over. With relief the depths increased as we passed Fort Royal and made for the anchorage.
There were about 6 or 7 superyachts anchored out, we were in
good company. We settled; Suzette working on her art project and I worked on
cocktails and dinner. The wind had settled and was keeping us pointed into a
slight swell making it fairly comfortable. Our stern to the island had us
enjoying a bucolic view of a pine tree forest right down to a rocky shore only
100m behind us. Off to the left the Fort peaked over the trees and off of our
port bow we could see Cannes with all its apartments and hotels. The night was
a little bumpy, but never a bad night when the bow stays pointed into the
swell. I would much rather bob for and aft than roll side to side.
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