10/11/23 Genoa, Italy
The day was a bit gray, but a relief in terms of
temperature. We had not explored the waterfront so we walked the Porto Antica.
There were lots of well preserved old cranes for offloading of ships from a bygone era. This has
been a working port throughout history and an early competitor for Venice. The
huge warehouse buildings have been restored and turned into office and retail
space.
We needed a few things from a regular grocery store so we made a longer and steeper than anticipated trek to the closest store. They had most of what we wanted, especially the all important toilet paper. The walk took us into the newer part of the city, large apartment blocks and somewhat modern buildings, but nothing that stood out architecturally.
Back on the boat we readied the ship as we talked with the
neighbors about places we should and should not visit. They were traveling the
med in the opposite direction from us.
Away at about noon for a very calm motor, 75 degrees, light
wind and seas. From the sea you could see that Genoa was a sprawling city
spanning miles along the coast. We passed the point near Portofino where we
would meet friends in about a week. The anchorage we were headed to was a place
called Sestri Lavante, a very beautiful sea side village offering good
protection from the slight swell from the south east. We dropped the hook in
about 5m of water 250m from the beach. In Italy it is not legal to anchor
within 250m of the shore, I was being careful to avoid that infraction.
A small ship rolled in next to us and dropped his hook. It looked like a small freighter outfitted with equipment to pin it in place and be used as a working platform. It had a large crane on the deck. The crew left the ship by tender, they must be headed home for the night. A calm night, but still a bit on the warm side.
10/12/23 Sestri Lavante, Italy
The day started with a light cloud cover and what looked
like rain inland. The weather was starting to turn according to the weather
app. A few more days of dry weather, then rain for a week! Suzette worked on
her art project and I was engrossed in finishing my book. I know this has been
a more relaxed trip as I have read 4 books so far and I am not normally a
veracious reader. Our ship neighbor departed early to go back to work.
We got underway about 1230 as the wind was coming up and the skies were clearing. We had 9 knots of breeze, the most we had seen in a while. We unfurled the jib and main and enjoyed a close reach tacking back and forth as we headed further east. The wind clocked to the South allowing us to sail our course directly to our way point until it died off. We rounded Pta Manara and cruised the coast taking in Cinque Terra from the sea. Amazing coastal towns hanging impossibly from the steep terraces cut into the mountain. Beyond were grape vineyards, I think, planted on the terraces rising behind the towns. Colorful houses and colorful fishing boats made this a very picturesque spot.
We rounded Pta San Pietro into Portovenere passage and carefully picked our way through the shallow channel, about 5 meters of water in the channel and 3m on either side. On the point was an ancient church, Chiesa di San Pietro and beyond that Castello Dria. We dropped our hook on the south side of the bay, but I did not feel like we had enough room to swing, fish farms and a fairway for the small fishing boats made it tight, so we pulled the anchor and went to the very roomy north side, a bit less protected, but plenty of room in 10m of water over sand. There were two other boats anchored so we had some company. The night was calm and the breeze was just enough to keep the boat cool.
10/13/23 Baia di Portovenere Nord, Italy
Up early as I began thinking about the day’s work to prepare
for our guests Bonnie and Don, who would be arriving the next day. The cabin
temperature was a perfect 68 degrees. Departed the anchorage about 7:30 under
partly cloudy skies and light breeze on the nose as we made our way south to
Pisa. Since we plan to come back this way along the coast we motored a rumb
line direct to Pisa.
The ride was smooth and uneventful arriving in Pisa about 1130. It is a narrow and shallow channel into the marina. In fact, the depth did not even show up on the chart, but the book said minimum of 4m. Being at the mouth of the Arno River you never know about the shoaling. No problem…4m plus all the way in. I was reassured by the much taller masts already in the marina.
The Capitainerie saw us coming in and waived us in before we
could even call on the radio. I was hoping to go to the fuel dock for a fill
up, not desperate, but their price per liter was pretty good. Unfortunately,
the fuel dock was closed so on to our birth. Easy mooring with to Capitainerie
helping and a light breeze on our nose. We settled in and started the cleaning
of the boat. They had a separate tap for rinsing the boat. I did not sample it,
could have been salt water for all I know. The sun was shining and we worked up
a sweat cleaning and polishing.
Don and Bonnie actually arrived in Pisa today, but we had
suggested they get a room and rest up before boarding the next day. We wanted
to get the boat presentable and ready for guests. Not unexpectedly they came
walking down the dock about midafternoon to say hello and start making plans.
Bonnie is Suzette’s girlfriend from childhood, they grew up together as
neighbors. We always stay with them at their lake house when we visit Suzette’s
family in Michigan. They have now retired and moved to Florida so Michigan
visits just will not be the same.
Having a loose plan, we sent them on their way and we headed
to the grocery store to stock up on provisions. The store was not only close it
was a great grocery store with everything we needed. Well, almost everything,
they do not seem to use cleaning vinegar here. After unloading the groceries,
it was off to the showers. After a bit of grooming, we settled in for the
evening. I made my Potato Frittata for tomorrows Tapas dinner, always best a
day ahead of time. Dinner was a bit of a clean up the left overs and other
things that needed to be eaten; half of a 3 day old baguette that we cristinied
on the grill with olive oil and a cabbage salad with anything that made sense
from the vegetable drawer.
10/14/23 Pisa, Italy
Very quiet marina and a calm overcast morning. A few last
minute chores and we were ready. Bonnie and Don arrived about 1100 and we
ferried their luggage aboard; 3 rolling cases, poppa bear, momma bear and baby
bear, and 2 carry ons. We deferred unpacking, we had a lot of catching up to do
over lunch in the cockpit. Mudo, one of the Capitainerie went out of his way to
help us get a cab. While we were waiting, he told us that he loved Americans. Bonnie
asked him why and shared that he was from Senegal, Africa and in Italy he was
allowed to come and work, but was not given any real opportunity. His friend
went to America and his friend was able to get educated and get a good job. He
loved that Americans worked hard, made money and were able to enjoy their
wealth. It was refreshing to hear that someone appreciated Americans.
Our taxi arrived and we were whisked into Pisa, about a 20
minute ride along the Arno River. We passed through the south gate of the
city’s wall and onto the grounds of the cathedral and leaning tower. It brought back great memories of our last
visit here with my aunt Dawn and Uncle Ed, we had such a great tour of Tuscany
together. We wondered the grounds taking in the spectacular buildings. We
passed out of the north gate and walked the city streets. The ladies walked the
shopping street while the boys had a beer at a café.
Back at the boat Bonnie and Don unpacked while we made a Tapas dinner. The boat went quiet pretty early as the jet lag took over. Overnight the wind came up making for a noisy night.
10/15/23 Pisa, Italy
The wind was gusting to 25 and the seas had already built to
2 meters. We could see the spray flying up 20’ in the air outside of the marina
as the waves slammed into the jetty. The surge in the marina was really giving
the lines a work out. The Capitainerie stopped by and said that it was unsafe
to leave, we agreed and booked one more night. It was a good day to hunker down
and play some cards in the solon. By about 1400 the wind was subsiding and we
went for a walk in the small seaside town. Out at the jetty we had a good view
of a very vicious sea and a SW facing entrance getting pummeled by a swell from
the SW. It was quaint town with lots of classic Italian villas and a few old
relics. There was the last of the original steam locomotives staged in a park.
We stopped at the grocery store and picked a few items for Bonnie’s delicious Brussel sprout salad that she made for dinner. We walked over to the marina restaurant and enjoyed a sundowner as the wind had gone quiet and the surge was subsiding. A round of train game and we were off to bed for a much quieter night.
10/16/23 Pisa, Italy
Our original plan was to work our way north to Portofino to meet up with our friends Ken and Kelly. I say original plan because it was looking like high winds, rain, thunder and lightning in the forecast. We decide to go ahead and make the run north to La Spezia in hopes that the forecast would improve, but by the end of the day we were cancelling our Portofino reservations and, sadly, letting our friends know that we would be a no show.
We departed about 1100 and enjoyed a broad reach in 10-13
knots of breeze and a 1m swell that was coming from the north. Amazing how in
24 hours the wind and swell can flip 180 degrees. The wind died about 1400 and
we motored into La Spezia, a huge port established in the 1800s for the Italian
navy. We had an easy mooring with the wind on our stern in Porto di Mirabello.
A quick settling of the boat and we were off to check in and walk the town.
Bonnie and Don opted for a cocktail at a café while Suzette and I walked the
pedestrian boulevards. There is a castle up on the hill, but not a lot of
ancient buildings.
Garibaldi
Back on the boat we grilled a pile of vegetables and poured
them over linguine with Suzette’s homemade pesto and some focaccia bread. It
seems that everyone was over their jet lag as we played Eucre into the wee
hours. A very quiet night in the Marina.
10/17/23 La Spezia, Italy
Up early, Bonnie and Don went off to breakfast in town while
Suzette and I caught up on emails and such over coffee. Got underway about 930
heading south. Coming out of the harbor entrance we were stopped by the
military in a RIB. They wanted us to stay in place. I asked why? Then they
asked where we were going. I said Livorno. They waved me to the eastern shore
and said to stay close to the shore. I headed east for a bit then started to
angle south and they came and waived me to the shore. There was a loud boom
from shore so we assume they were doing some practice maneuvers. As I got close
to the eastern shore I started to head south and another boat waived me over
closer to the shore. Finally we got around the practice area, hearing a few
more booms.
The sun was out and the light wind was behind so we enjoyed a motor boat ride south to Cala di Medici. Another easy mooring, good to have crew. We checked in and settled in for dinner and cards. We made breakfast for dinner, my favorite.
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