4/23/23 Alcudia, Mallorca, Spain
The marina was quiet, though there was some sort of live music
playing on the other side of the harbor last night. Decided to explore the old
city by bike. The walled city sits at the top of the hill, Al Cudia means
“Hill”, and dates back to Phoenician times. The location gave them a view to
both sides of the peninsula and access to two ports. There was a huge outdoor
market taking up all of the area at the main gate and streaming into the
streets of the town. The market was packed with people so we parked our bikes
and waded through the crowd. We walked the wall of the city past the church,
which appeared to be just getting out as the congregation poured into the
streets. Stopped at a little café for our usual, cappuccino and a Latte, and a
bite. Continuing our circumnavigation by the wall we soon found ourselves back
at the gate, a very small city, but beautiful with its stone streets, more like
narrow alleys, and colorful row houses. We rode down the other side of the hill
to the next bay. We found what was probably the other port area, but no longer
functioning as a port, just beautiful clear water, sunbathers and swimmers.
The old harbor?
They day was warm and sunny, clear, unlike yesterday’s hazy sky. In the evening we walked the east side of the beach front to see what the fair and music was all about, but that was last night’s show, nothing happening this night. It was Sunday after all. Enjoyed Sunday pizza on the boat along with some trip planning and weather watching.
4/24/24 Alcudia, Mallorca, Spain
A lazy start on a beautiful clear morning. The days are
getting longer and warmer. The cabin temperature is closer to 64 in the morning
where before it was high 50’s. We rode our bikes to the inland grocery store
anticipating more choices and less cost. We would be at anchor for the next
week so we wanted to top up the fridge and bar. The inland store was a good
call, but we did make a second stop at a beautiful grocery store near the
waterfront. They had a great wine selection and couple odd items we could not
find elsewhere.
Sort of a sad day because we took advantage of the WIFI and planned our return to home; hotels, airlines and buses.
With the groceries stowed and the boat ready to sail we
headed out across the bay south to an anchorage called S’Estanyol, this would
be our jumping off point for the crossing to Menorca. We were in no hurry and
the wind was just right at 12 knots so we sailed and played with the sail trim.
On the last sail the main leach was flapping terribly on a close reach.
Tightening the leach cord made it better, but I am not in love with my main
sail. I miss my main sheet traveler. The self-tacking jib has beautiful shape
with its battened roach and high-tech fabric, but if you try to sail much off
of the wind it is difficult to get great shape. The self-tacking is fabulous
going head to wind with multiple tacks and very little effort. It was a fun
afternoon of sailing just for the sake of sailing and trying to ease the
admiral into the concept of sailing close to the wind. She did declare that
this boat does not sail to windward.
The anchorage was empty and shallow, it looked like a
swimming pool. We anchored in about 3.5 m of water over lots of clean sand in
calm wind and seas. This still had us several 100 meters off the beach.
4/25/24 S’Estanyol, Mallorca, Spain
Up with the sun to ready the boat to cross the channel of
Mallorca to Menorca, about 30 miles. We put the dinghy on the davits and rigged
the code zero. Motoring past the Cap Farrutx the wind picked up from the NW and
we unfurled the sails. This is the first time we have used the code zero on
this trip and it is beautiful. We only had light wind, 5-9 knots, but we were
making 4-6 knots SOG with the favorable current. We enjoyed a couple hours of
sailing before the wind slowed and clocked 180 degrees as predicted. We furled
the sails and motored until the wind filled in from the south. Another hour or
so sailing now on a broad starboard tack had us arriving at Cala Santandria.
This is a tiny cala, maybe 100 m wide and fairly shallow. We were greeted by a
topless young lady and her boyfriend in their dinghy. There was a small sail
boat at the entrance so we slipped by and found a spot in the middle of the
cala, as best we could, and dropped the anchor in 4.5 m of water. We monitored
the boat swing and, in this light breeze, felt like we had enough room to
swing. The wind was out of the SW, but predicted to go NE, which it did.
The Cala is somewhat famous in French history as Marechal Richelieu, commander of the French invasion, landed here with his troops on 18 April 1756, in route to capture Ciudadela, the port city. We explored the cove by dinghy finding many caves along the low stone walls. Later we learned that these were in fact 4000 year old tombs that later were used as small gun emplacements during the war. At the entrance to the cala is the Torre Es Castella, a well protected lookout tower with a mote and high walls around it. It looks more like a gun emplacement then a lookout tower and dates back to 1798.
4/26/23 Cala Santandria, Menorca,
Spain
There are several places along the rock wall where people
have installed ladders down to the water and probably 100 stainless steel rings
spike into the rocks along the walls. Small boats can put out an anchor in the
center of the long narrow cala and then tie their stern to the wall. I can
imagine that in the summer it is wall to wall boats like Lake Havasu. We took
advantage of a ring and a ladder to park the dinghy and walk to Ciudadela,
about 3 km. It was a warm sunny day so the layers were pealing quickly. We
walked to the Torre Es Castella for a closer look and then along the rocky
coast where there huge water front homes with pools and manicured lawns. It
must get hot here in the summer as even the small neighborhood houses had a
pool.
SS Ring
Looks like it is floating on air
Ciudadela dates back to prehistoric times, long before the Phoenicians settled in 1600 BC. There are several castles and many ancient buildings in spite of being sacked and pillaged many times throughout history. We enjoyed a stop for coffee and some lunch at a café by the small boat marina. Walking the old city is always a walk through history. Picked up some Menorcan cheese and spirits. They are known for their dairy and cheese with their happy cows and sheep. We returned to our cala via the roads to see the neighborhoods and how the locals live
.
Back on the boat it was hot and sunny so we went for a swim.
Clothing is optional here so why get my swim suit wet. The water is about 17 C,
cold, but refreshing. Refreshed and soaking up the sun for a bit, but the
admiral was wanting to hide from the sun. This precipitated the installation of
the dodger shade cloth over the Isenglass. I had made the shade clothes at
home, but needed to install the snaps. They turned out really nicely. The
center panel allows for the Isenglass to be rolled open while the shade cloth
remains in place.
In the evening we dinghied to the beach and enjoyed
libations at the beach bar with a great view of the cala. It was so clear we
could see Mallorca in the distance.
4/27/23 Cala Santandria, Menorca, Spain
A few boat chores in the morning as we enjoyed the beautiful
setting. We readied the boat for sailing and headed north. The breeze was
light, but we put up the sails and puttered along at 3 knots in the wrong
direction for an hour or two, just to enjoy the sail and the view of both
Menorca and Mallorca. Menorca is a low island with rolling hills and farm land.
We gybed as the wind picked up and set a course for Cala de Algayerene on the
north side of the island. The wind died as we sailed into the lee of the
island, so we motored the last half hour. This cala was very remote and best
accessed by boat. There are no hotels, stores or bars on shore, just a
beautiful beach and a couple old stone buildings that look abandoned. There
were a number of people on the beach and a boat anchored, Spanish flagged.
We settle in on the east side of the cala in about 4 m of water over lots of sand. It appeared that there were two beaches divided by a large rock outcrop. The western beach seamed like the family beach the east beach evidently was the nude beach. That’s it, off with the cloths and in for a swim. Cleaned up some of the smutz that had soiled my hull, that’s a work out. The sun was still high so it felt good to soak up some rays and erase some tan lines. We spotted wild goats on the steep rocks to the east, similar to the ones we saw on Mallorca.
Suzette made a homemade soup for dinner. She collects all of
the vegetable peels, onion skins, etc in a bag in the freezer, then uses them
to make a stock. The stock always smells so good, by the time soup is ready I
am ravenous having enjoyed the aromas for hours. Another boat pulled in and
anchored, German flagged, named Sputnik. This is a huge well protected cove,
plenty of room for a lot of boats.
The breeze clocked around to the south west and died as
predicted. It was an incredibly still night at anchor.
4/28/23 Cala de Algayerene, Menorca,
Spain
Up with the sun for another glorious day in the
Mediterranean! I finished the last shade panel for the dodger windows and
cleaned up a few details on the boat. We did a bit of exploring in the dinghy
in one of the outer calas. It looked like it may have housed a small fishing
fleet at one time with its concrete boat ramp and long concrete pontoon. There
were a couple old stone buildings and a storage shed. On the hill was another
of what looked like an ancient tomb in the side of the rock. We let the wind
blow us back to the family beach.
We pulled the dinghy up on the beach and I quickly realized that my ASSessment was wrong, there are naked people here as well! We walked to the high ground that led to a dirt road back to civilization, or perhaps this is more civilized? We walked the beach and observed another of the tomb like structures at the far end. Walking inland we found farmland with modern equipment and working farms.
Back to the boat for a little lunch and shade for the hot
part of the day. In the late afternoon we beached the dinghy on the east end of
the beach and hiked up the hill in search of the goats. It started as a rocky climb
and a bit of a bushwhack through the low grasses. Then I saw a blue string with
the end tied to a tree. We followed it and discovered that someone had marked a
trail with the string that led to the top of the hill and out to the point. The
view was fabulous, but no goats. We headed back down and out to the boat for a
refreshing swim. Swam to the shore and back for some upper body exercise, the
cold water and fresh air were invigorating.
A couple more boats pulled in and anchored, but it was far from crowded. Countries represented; US, Germany. France, Spain and an unflagged fishing dory, probably local. Another quiet night at anchor.
4/29/23 Cala de Algayerene, Menorca, Spain
Up early to ready the boat for the 30 mile run to Mahon at
the other end of the island. We set up the code zero anticipating wind building
from the north. Motored out and east for a couple hours waiting for the wind to
clock north, but it stayed on our nose until we rounded our first cape and
turned a bit south of east. Unfurled the main and jib for a slow close reach,
tacking across our rhumb line for a couple hours. The coast line is rugged with
deep calas and no mountains to speak of. The sky was a bit overcast so it was
cool, a weather change was coming. Still low wind and still on our nose we
furled the sails and motored around the last cape into Bahia de Mahon, supposedly
one of the largest natural harbors in the world.
The entrance was overlooked by what appeared to be a huge fortification and ancient gun emplacements. As we made our way through the harbor, about 4 miles deep into the land, we were surrounded by marinas, beautiful homes and ancient buildings. Our marina was at the very end of the harbor. We hailed the Marina several times on VHF, but no answer. We called on the phone and no answer. Mind you we had a confirmed reservation. We finally decided to simply take a birth as there were several open. The boat owners on the dock were helpful and guided us in to a spot. Always feels good to do a very calm and well controlled med moor when you have an audience. We quickly settled in and got to know the neighbors. Black Marlin de Menorca on Port, Bret and Maria, operated as a charter. An amazing 70’ wooden boat built in Turkey. A Beneteau on starboard that had been hit and sunk in shallow water. The Owner, a Danish boat builder, bought it and completely refurbished and upgraded it. I need to talk more with him.
The Marinaros finally did show up, evidently, we came at
siesta time, though the marina office is closed until Tuesday. It would have
been nice if they said something when they acknowledged our reservation. He
took pictures of our papers and said he would return with a card key for the
and bathrooms, but he did not return. As it turns out Monday is a holiday, sort
of like our Labor Day. I always seem to land in a marina on a holiday or
weekend. Oh well, Paella and a cocktail, we will worry about it manana.
4/30/23 Mahon, Menorca, Spain
Woke to a heavy cloud cover and wind. It rained for an hour
or so, refreshing. Things dried quickly with the breeze and we headed out to
explore the city. The old city seamed to reside on the high cliff so we made
our way up the steep road out of the marina. The first building we came to was
a cathedral where part of the building, perhaps living quarters, was turned in
to a Menorcan History Museum. Suzette was in her glory because the temporary
exhibit was Menorcan Gastronomy. The exhibit was very well done as you explored
how and why they ate what they ate from ancient times to now and in the future.
On the second level we were guided through the Menorcan
History of their civilization dating back some 4000 years. Another amazing
exhibit made even better by the building it was housed in with its vaulted
ceilings and grand courtyard. The main chapel was beautiful and certainly
riveled any we have seen so far in Spain. Walking the streets we would get
glimpses of the harbor below. Many row houses now turned offices and stores,
but you could get a feel for how they lived. As always we found the crowds
where the stores and restaurants are. We had a cappuccino, latte and a bite at
what seemed to be a Muslim influenced restaurant with their eastern Mediterranean
foods. The egg plant dish with a yogurt dressing was fabulous and Suzette
talked them out of the general recipe for preparation on Raffaellesco. The
secret ingredient, Ras El Hanout, put it on the shopping list.
We made our way down to the quay where the buildings were newer, 1700 to Present, and walked the quay. Lots of gorgeous yachts and classic little fishing boats. Across the harbor we could see 4 military boats/ships at the dock, they were flying the Turkish flag. A ferry was arriving that look more about goods and equipment delivery and less about people. We made our way back to the boat and set about making Sunday Pizza. Breakfast pizza for dinner; thin sliced potatoes, jamone, eggs sunny side up, gruyere cheese and tomato sauce.
After dinner we walked around to the boat yard across the
harbor. There were some very sad boats in the back corner that did not look
like they would float again. One looked like the Cape Dory that my dad had at
one time. Other boats were looking sharp with their fresh bottom paint and
polished hulls. We were stopped by a fellow on the dock who was curious about
our California registration, we explained our short boat history to clarify
that the boat was never in CA. He bought his trawler in Newport Rhode Island
and motored over to the EU seven years ago. When he arrived in Menorca he
stayed. He was British, but now lived here.
A very quiet night in the Marina made for a great sleep.
More high winds predicted so we will stay put for a couple more days.
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