Monday 8/22
The boat settled by about 0900 and a rain had set in, as
predicted by 2 of the 4 weather reports I was watching. It was a good day to
catch up in important things like reading more equipment manuals, balancing the
check book and doing some paperwork. The sun teased us once or twice, but the
rain did not abate until about 1500. We took the opportunity to go into town
and walk the strand along the beach. There were lots of people and lots of
shops to leave your money in. The buildings looked Swiss in their architecture,
but laid out in a hap hazard maze of streets and walk ways.
Back on the boat it was Pizza night, I know, Sunday is pizza
night, but frankly I hardly know what day it is! Our next commitment of sorts
is to be in Bilboa, Spain by around 9/1 so Jeanneau can take care of a
couple items left on the punch list, though I will not be surprised if the
parts are not there yet.
A little quieter night at anchor, but only a little…
Tuesday 8/23/2022
Another overcast morning. We were headed to the border which
was only about 4 miles away. Prep for departure is easier when we are at anchor
as things tend to be pretty secure already. We motored the 4 miles SW and
stopped at the fuel dock in Hondarribia Marina, Spain! The sun had come out and
it was getting warm with only a light breeze. We took on about 216 L of fuel.
Headed back out of the marina to find the anchorage. We found a great spot off
of the beach behind the fishing boat basin and dropped in about 6 m of water.
There was lots of water activity and more boats arrived to anchor. They seem to
day trip on their boats here, we have seen very few cruisers. The other theory
is that cruisers may skip this area completely. With just 2 of us we have not
felt compelled to do any long overnight passages.
Leaving St Jean de Luz
The weather forecast is rainy, but calm seas and wind, so I
figured I would do some scheduled boat maintenance while we stay at anchor. We
already have 50 hours on the engine so it is time to do the first oil and
filter changes. We took the dinghy into the marina to pick up the filters etc,
but the port captain said we could not park there, in a not so friendly way.
We went back to the boat loaded our bikes on the dinghy and headed to the fishing boat pier. The cruising guide indicated that we would find a place to leave the dinghy and we did. We offloaded and unfolded the bikes for the short ride to the boat yard and stores. We found a place that had most of what we needed, but would have to order the fuel filter. We bought what she had and agreed to come back for the fuel filter.
Stopped at the dive shop and chatted with the dive masters.
Sounds like the visibility has been poor with churned up ocean. They are diving
wrecks at about 40 m and diving the shore at about 20 meters to view the sea
life. I inquired about buying a 5 L scuba tank and they said they could get on
in the next day, so we ordered it. You may recall that I need to fill my
illegal 1 L emergency tank. Looks like we will be back in a day or 2.
It was a very pleasant evening and night in the anchorage, I
slept about 10 hours. Who says you can’t catch up on sleep?
Wednesday 8/24/22
It was a light overcast and headed to a warm sunny day so we
decided to tour the town, took our bikes to shore and headed toward the
original walled part of the city. Once inside the walls it was clear that the
bikes need to be parked, narrow streets and heavy coble stones. The ancient
architecture was amazing with carved beams, stone work and well cared for. We
stopped in the Parish Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion Y del Manzano, built
in the 15th century. The stone work was amazing and the alter brilliant
in gold. Adjacent was the castle Charles the V, very austere and utilitarian.
Plaza de Armas fronted the castle; this was definitely the high ground and the
view of the sea was fabulous.
There was a café in one corner so we enjoyed our first latte
and cappuccino since leaving home. At home it is part of our morning routine,
it is one of the things we miss. Perhaps an espresso machine for the boat? We
continue thought the walled city to the back entry through the wall, it was not
very big. It was getting really hot so we saddled up on our bikes to find a
restaurant by the water for lunch.
Unfortunately, I hit a little curb to hard and got a flat
tire. I had dutifully bought spare tubes for the bikes, but I did not put them
in our bag, nor did I have tools. Looking on google maps there was a bike shop
not to far away, but Spain is worse than France for their long lunches. It was
about 1330 and the bike shop did not reopen until 1630. So, we had choices; 1.
lock the bike up and walk back to the dinghy and run out to the boat for a
spare and tools, 2. Uber, 3. Leave the bikes at the bike shop, go get lunch and
return when they open. Plan 3 it was.
When we went looking for a restaurant we were on our own as
my phone died. It is terrible how dependent we have become on phones. Fortunately,
I had grabbed a paper map at the visitor’s center. As it turned out we were
just outside the back gate to the city so we walked back to Plaza de Armas and
found a great restaurant, scallops in the most delicious sauce and grilled
octopus over an interesting mash potato dish. It was the best meal I have
enjoyed so far on our trip. We lingered for a long time, one to stay out of the
heat and two too wait for the bike shop to open.
We arrived at the bike shop just as the shop keep was
returning. He said he could fix it, but it would not be ready until 1900. So I
bought his tube, but he did not have tools to sell. Next stop, hardware store
where we found what we needed. I had the ne tube and we were on our way in 30
minutes. I did have a pump on the bike.
We stopped at the marine supply store on the way back to the
dinghy and she had just received my filters! Things were looking up. At the
dive shop it was as though we were starting over on my tank purchase. Oh well.
When we returned to the boat it was time for a refreshing
swim, cocktail, and some dinner. The evening was calm, but the wind kicked up
at what time? Just about 0200. We were getting gusts off the land in the 30-mph
range. Not so uncomfortable on our boat, but I was concerned with the other
boats around me so I did an anchor watch. The boat behind me was crewed by a
couple and anchored in the evening. There seemed to be a lot of chatter onboard
and flashlights whirling around as the wind came in gusts. The fun began when an
unoccupied boat on a mooring had its furled jib become unfurled. It was making
a horrendous noise and the boat was sailing on its mooring. The next thing I
know the guy in the boat behind me dives in and is swimming to the moored boat.
The woman is yelling at him and he is reassuring her as he swims. Then he goes
silent and she is screaming “Paquito! Paquito!”. I get out the night monocular
to try and spot him, but no bueno. So now I am deciding who to call and what to
say. Fortunately, Paquito made it back to his boat for the chastising of his
now prolonged life. The wind was settling so I went to bed.
Thursday 8/25/22
Another pretty day, in
spite of the prediction of rain. Plan for the day was to do the 50-hour service
on the engine. It took some time to gather all the necessary parts, but I am
ready, or so I thought. I was doing well with the oil change etc, but I did not
have a suitable wrench for the drain plug on the transmission. Now guess what
time it is, 3-hour lunch break, no stores open. Killed some time by actually
having lunch and doing a few other chores.
Loaded up the dinghy; bikes, used engine oil, trash, etc.
and was off to the store. The charger for the dinghy motor was not working
properly, fortunately I had noticed that the marine supply store carried our
motor. They also took our old motor oil, filters, etc. They tested the charger
and it was bad. They tried to make a few calls to see if they could get it
covered under warranty. They put the battery on a new charger and said they
would keep trying to reach someone. We were off to the hardware store for a
proper wrench. Back past the old city the hardware store had what we needed.
More of an Ace hardware than a Home Depot. Stopped for some groceries at a
great little market.
Back the marine supply store they could not reach anyone for
warranty so we bought the new charger and went on our way. When we returned to
the boat, I noticed a rather official looking boat anchored to our starboard.
Sure enough, within 20 minutes 4 of them in a tender were headed our way. They identified themselves as Customs and
requested permission to board. The usual questions; drugs, guns, papers, money?
They were really interested in knowing if we had more than $10k. He found it
hard to believe that I only had about 100 euros. They did a brief search, had
us open the safe, filled out some paperwork and went on their way just in time
for my sundowner.
It was a very calm night with some light rain.
So I guess Paquito didn't fix the unfurled sail. It would probably be too bouncy to board the boat. I don't know if you remember, but you both, Steve Phillips and I went on a hike at Two Harbors. It turned out to be a longish hike and we weren't sure where we were going. You talked about this trip and at the time were thinking about buying a Bavaria and wanted a hard (?) chine. Anyway, your boat looks nice. I guess you are mostly anchoring. Are there harbors like in SoCal where you can anchor?
ReplyDelete