May 27, 2025 – Kalamata Marina, Peloponnese, Greece

Up early to get ready for departure before the next set of high winds came up. We went to the Port Authority to check out. They had told us when we checked in that they were always open but when we arrived they said come back after 0800?! We finished getting the boat ready to go and made a stop at the grocery store for a couple things to tie us over for a few more days. On the way back to the boat we stopped at the Port Authority for a quick sign out. We dropped the groceries at the boat and then returned the rental car. The lady at the rental car place was very grateful that we took good care of her car. Evidently, not everyone does.

We were away by 0930 for a calm motor down the bay, but when we turned west around the point we were hit with building wind and seas. We rolled out the sails and sailed for a while, but we were getting beat up as we made our way between a number of small islands that limited our ability to tack so we furled the sails and motored. The wind and sea were calming as we made our way north along the coast to Ormos Navarinou. The bay was calm and beautiful with beaches to the north. We anchored off the beach in about 7 m and settled in with 10 other boats. It was a quiet night in a very well protected bay.

Rounding the point back into the Ionian Sea

A spectacular fort guarding the southern end of the Pelloponnese

May 28, 2025 Ormos Navarinou, Peloponnese, Greece

A clear and calm morning as we motored north with no wind. We enjoyed a brief dolphin visit before arriving at Katakolon anchorage. There were a couple boats anchored when we arrived but plenty of room. We anchored in about 5 m and enjoyed the tranquility of this beach side place. A little wind in the night but generally quiet.

Looks a little ominous, but not for us

A bit of sailing as the wind built

2 Cruise ships in Katakolon

Katakolon town

May 29, 2025 – Katakolon, Peloponese, Greece

Sunshine and light wind for a motorboat ride to Agios Nikolaos on Zakinthos. We could not get confirmation that there would be available space for us but we went anyway. It turned out that there was plenty of room to moor on the public quay. We had help from the marineros, anchor down and tie to the quay. The tavern owner and fuel station owner both were on hand to greet us, indicating it was free to moor here, just spend some money with us. No problem, I needed fuel.

Suzette nursing a bee back to health, water and warmth, he flew away

We settled the boat and walked to the market for a bag of groceries. We debated whether to stay 1 or 2 nights, as a result we put off checking in with the port authority. We hiked to the top of the mountain taking in all the fabulous new homes being built here. This must be a newly discovered gem of a place. The wind was building, and rain was predicted so we headed back to the boat.

The Bay Agios Nikolaos

I am not sure if this little island helped or made worse the swell

Not a bad spot for a new home

With a windy afternoon predicted several boats were coming in to hide out. Unfortunately, they were coming in with the high winds and having a tough time. I was glad that I was on my boat to fend off the new neighbor as he desperately tried to keep his boat in control. No fiberglass was harmed so it was all good.

The fuel truck arrived, and we filled one tank hoping for a better price at the marina to fill the other tank. The swell was starting to roll in from the east, not predicted and, in fact, warned about. If the swell comes from the NE get out. It was a washing machine all night but not terrible, the setting for delicates.

May 30, 2025 – Agios Nikolaos, Zakinthos, Greece

The swell was coming in full force on our nose in the morning and all the boats were getting tossed. Being the biggest boat on the quay we were not as affected but not comfortable. Time to check in and check out before it gets worse. Stopping at the Port Authority it appeared to be closed, but a young man in civies unlocked the door. He told us no one was there for stamps, and we needed to pay for our mooring before we could check out. Where do we pay? You have to take a taxi to the town 40 KM south. No problem, thanks for the info.

We walked away both knowing we were not doing that, we were getting out of there now. On the way a small sailboat was getting thrown against the quay with a young woman on board desperately trying to get a bumper between her boat and the concrete quay. The captain was attempting to reboard the boat and get out of the mooring. We helped her get the bumper in place and assisted with lines as they managed to get off the quay. Having an anchor rather than mooring lines makes it a little more complicated but they managed.

Back at the boat both neighbors were preparing to leave. We assisted the port side neighbor and fended off another near miss. He was clearly scared and shorthanded even with 3 of them on the boat. He managed to get clear but grappled with the anchor for a while in front of our boat. We were engine running and ready to go in case he pulled our anchor.

Once clear we made a hasty departure for a clean get away. Once clear of the bay the wind and sea were on our nose and brutal, 20 to 25 knots of wind and a 4-5’ sea with a short period. We headed toward the island of Kefalonia in an effort to gain some protection. The island did its job, and we anchored of the beach on the southside for a rest and some lunch. The admiral said this would not be a good spot to overnight so we got underway about 1500 and the seas and wind were much quieter. We had to go about 2 miles out of our way to clear a huge reef on the southeast corner of Kefalonia. The note on the chart says “Beware: Many boats run aground here every year”. Enough said, I steered clear.

Suzette steering the waves


Kapholonia in the distance

We proceeded up the coast a short distance to an anchorage called Porto Skala Beach Sud and tucked in as close as we dared to the rocks. It was a bit rollie but eventually settled down enough to rock me to sleep.

May 31, 2025 – Porto Skala Beach Sud, Kefalonia, Greece

Up and out for a motor north to One House Bay where we had been more than 2 months ago. We enjoyed calm wind and seas with the sun shing bright. As we rounded into the anchorage, we could see that it was a full anchorage, but we managed to anchor close to the beach. It helped that we had lots of experience from our club at home on Catalina Island and that we had been here before. It also helps that we know most of these boats will be leaving at some point in the day.

Colorful neighborhood on Kaphalonia

The big attraction here is the beautiful setting, clear water and the feral pigs that run wild on the beach. There were about 8 pigs and about 20 piglets to keep everyone entertained. Sadly, it is the fact that they get fed here that brings them to this spot. There was definitely some in fighting when a new boat arrived with treats. In the corner a fisherman had breached his boat and appeared to be collecting mussels on the rocks. A 50-foot picnic boat rolled in with a half dozen bikini clad bride’s maids with pink hats and a bride to be with her vail. They had a great time with the pigs and singing to American music on the boom box.

Welcoming party


Well fed and napping up

The boats were coming and going all day with several of them reanchoring multiple times. We swam and watched the party roll on. By evening there were 4 or 5 remaining boats that seemed to be staying the night. We had a good spot, and they all arrived after us so when they were having a hard time anchoring and staying clear of us I did not feel compelled to move. Eventually everyone settled in and 5 of us spent a very quiet night at anchor.

A million years of history?

In for the night

June 1, 2025 – One House Bay, Atokos, Greece

A very quiet night and a beautiful sunny morning. We motored north to Lefkas on a glassy sea. It was our last opportunity to fill the water tank and blow out the turbo before putting the boat away for the summer. It was Sunday so the charter fleet was dispersing. There were 100s of boats heading south to disperse throughout the Ionian for a week of fun.

Departing On House Bay

Boats streaming south in Lefkas Canal

Arriving at the marina we radioed in and followed the marineros to our home for the summer. With light wind coming away from the pontoon it was easy to moor and tie up the boat. There water and electricity is automated and I already had the app, we were connected in no time. It is nice to come back to a familiar place.

Now the work begins to put the boat away. First chore was to empty the aft lazarettes so the technicians could easily access the generator for its removal. Next, top down cleaning, mast, rigging, boom, bimini, dodger and dinghy. Tomorrow would be the decks and hull.

Suzette cleaned below, walls, cabinets, placemats and pillow covers. We try to leave Raffaellesco as good or better than we started out. Since it was Sunday we enjoyed our last Pizza night.

June 2, 2025 – Lefkas Marina, Lefkada, Greece

We have perfect weather for putting the boat away, dry, sunny, calm in the morning, breezy in the afternoon and warm. First stop was the genset repair people, she welcomed us and indicated she would let me know what time the technicians would come by. Next stop was the Port Authority but not open yet. We killed a little time in the grocery store, Suzette’s favorite pass time. Back to the Port Authority for a quick stamping in. We clarified with the officer that we would be leaving the boat in the marina and flying home for the summer. We would check out of Greece in the fall. No problem, enjoy your stay.

Back on the boat, with the decks cleared we scrubbed the top sides, working hard to get rid of the red brown that has permeated the nonskid, Sahara dust. With clean decks Suzette worked on cleaning cushions up on the clean deck while I worked on removing lines to store for the summer. Since we had good drying weather and time I decided to clean and soak the lines before stowing them. The generator tech arrived and quickly assed the situation. He indicated that they would need to have the marina pull the unit and they would be in touch to schedule. Progress.

This is the point that the boat looks like a bomb went off in side, stuff everywhere as we clean and stow. A boat arrived on our dock with a Grateful Dead Flag and an upside down American flag. We met the couple later in the day, Steve and Alli on Nellie, a Kraken 50. They invited us for cocktails at 1800.

We cleaned and made ourselves presentable. Suzette whipped up a snack tray and we were off. The Kraken 50 is a complicated boat, lithium batteries, Yanmar diesel and an electric motor make it a hybrid boat. The electronics were mind boggling. They had taken delivery of the boat in Turkey in 2023, a new build. They were from Breckenridge, CO and cruised part time like us. They were headed to Montenegro to lay the boat up for the summer, returning in the fall to cross the Atlantic to the Caribbean, I am sure we will see them there. Lots of boat talk, politics and life stories were shared.

June 3, 2025 – Lefkas Marina, Lefkada, Greece

The tech arrived at 0900 as we were already hard at work. They spent about 2 hours disconnecting and preparing the generator for removal and vanished. We needed to go to the marina office and secure a place at the crane for Thursday for the removal. We continued our efforts taking advantage of the cool morning.

After lunch we off to the marina office and then the laundromat. The best one yet but also the most expensive, this is a charter boat town and they get a premium.

More cleaning of lines and cockpit. Some tidying of the boat as we had invited Steve and Alli for aperitivos on Raffaellesco. Another fine evening of boat chatter as we made some recommendations for their visit to Croatia.

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